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Hope in Tokyo: Climber Ondra says I have a secret trump card in my sleeve

Hope in Tokyo: Climber Ondra says I have a secret trump card in my sleeve s

Athletes are counting down the days until the Olympic flame ignites after a delay over Tokyo. At the same time, many of them admit that the extra year helped them. What does the deadline mean to you?

It has definitely helped me grow my performance. At first it occurred to me that I would have to spend another year climbing quickly, which I consider a necessary horror, but then I rearranged it in my head and realized this was a huge opportunity for further improvement. Even before the pandemic, I also started working with new coach Peter Klovac and was very excited to try new methods. And I think last year’s races confirmed that everything is working.

Were you able to improve your performance at unpopular speeds?

I was hoping to speed up more during the year, which unfortunately did not materialize. (Laughter) I’ve reached the maximum of my potential and more outside of my body, which has the advantages of climbing in one area, but weaknesses in another, I don’t stress while running. However, at the same time, I feel like I’ve visibly improved in the remaining two areas, the boulder and the difficulty climb. Which I didn’t really expect.

Adam Ondra
Boy: February 5, 1993 in Brno.
discipline: Climbing
Fitness Trainer: Peter Klovac
OH Balances:
Achievements: Gold Medal at the World Championships in Difficulty 2014, 2016, 2019 and the World Championships in Difficulty 2014. Silver Medal at the World Championships in Difficulty 2009 and 2018 and in combination 2018, the World Championships in Rocket 2011 and 2016. Bronze medal at the World Championships in difficulty 2011 and 2012. In 2009 and 2015, he won the world championships in difficulty and overall, in 2010 he dominated the world championships in rock and in general. In addition to competitive climbing, it also greatly influences the history of rock climbing – in 2017, he climbed the Line of Silence in Flatanger, Norway, which proposed a never-before-used rating of difficulty 9c. In 2016, he made his second free climb of the Dawn Wall on the El Capitan block in Yosemite – where he climbed the world’s heaviest large wall, at 32 feet tall, in eight days. In 2017, he was awarded the Jiří Guth-Jarkovsky Prize, the highest award from the Czech Olympic Committee.
status: Free
education: He holds a Bachelor’s degree in Business Administration from the Faculty of Economics and Management, Masaryk University
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What was the news in preparation?

Non-climbing “dry” training plays a larger role and climbing is trained in more specific energy systems. Based on the data from my lactate measurements, I was able to customize the preparation so that I had better climb performance on difficulty. Frequency or length of pregnancy, I know exactly what I’m training and we don’t have it as before.

Adam Ondra at the World Cup race in Briancon.

Olympic racing combines three specific disciplines. Do you work specifically with the breath in each?

I have experienced this on climbs on difficulty, it is important not to climb – as we say – on divers, because four minutes of a flight without proper breathing will make a person feel completely sad. But I have no idea I’ll break the climbing rhythm with a breath. However, specialists in speed climbing certainly run a 15-meter wall in one breath, because the body is harnessed so comprehensively that it is practically impossible to breathe.

An extra year brought time. But how hard is it to work with an incentive?

If I knew I had to lock myself out of the gym for a year and get out before the Olympics, I’d go crazy. It is essential to be able to find a healthy balance. In this, last year was a serious solo test. And I don’t think it helped some of the contestants and their impulses fluctuated.

Surprisingly enough, you qualified for the first Olympic bid in 2019 until the second attempt. Did the need to make reparations for the Tokyo factory have a positive effect in the end?

It’s been psychological hell for several weeks. But when I got over it, I took things as they were. I had no nightmares about it. If the Olympics were last year, the experience would probably help me. But today I don’t remember it anymore, it was just one of the other races.

During the spring, you sent a clear message to your opponents with excellent results in the World Cup. How are cards distributed?

Twelve people have a chance to win in the rocks. Difficult to predict, but discipline where you can watch the performance more and it would be a surprise if I, Germany’s Alex Migos or Austrian Jacob Schubert won’t win. The favorite for sure is Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki, who has very good speed and rock performance and can climb up the difficulty quite well. The irony is that the best candidates are not currently the best in terms of speed, because qualifying was two years ago and the discipline has changed since then.

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Doesn’t the endless connection of a section of the Japanese public prevent you from playing games because of the pandemic?

I won’t wake up until the Olympics is cancelled. I can’t believe it anymore. However, I somewhat understand that the Japanese are afraid of introducing disease. Covid is almost non-existent there and they did not go through what European countries are going through, for example. They are neither immersed nor ate and are simply afraid.

The games certainly won’t have the support of the traditional audience. The windy weather, for example, complements the climbing finals. Will the Tokyo Grand Prix be much different?

We’ll see what actions regulators will eventually take. The irony is that supposed spectators will not be able to cheer. Climb in front of onlookers and in extreme silence? This sounds funny to me. At the same time, the reaction of the spectators gave a clear indication of how the opponent performed in front of you.

After winning his third world title, Adam Ondra placed seventh in the Athlete of the Year poll in 2019.


Given the situation, how do you plan to adapt and focus?

The original idea was to be in Tokyo three weeks before the race. Maybe it will eventually be possible, but the training conditions will likely be very limited, and the restrictions are incredible in Japan. We are working with the plan to be in Korea two weeks before the Olympics and I will be moving to the venue up to five days before the race itself, when the wall is open. Korea is an ideal solution in terms of time difference and similar climatic conditions. And near Japan, it is probably the only country that offers suitable training conditions. Of course, not as good as I was at my home in Brno, but I had to look for a middle ground due to acclimatization. (Laughter)

The Olympic race will be held in an unconventional way on the outer wall and you will have to deal with the heat and high humidity. Are you preparing for something extra for a particular environment? Didn’t a special magnesium appear, for example?

I haven’t found a technical solution that would have a “cool” effect. But I will definitely prepare hard. I may not want to reveal more. Maybe after the Olympics, I’ll reveal my trick.

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So you have the famous trump card up your sleeve?

I think yes. (smiling)

When will Adam Ondra be in business
The sport climbing race will consist of two parts in Tokyo. qualifications All three sub-specialties will be performed August 3 from 10:00 CESTAnd the finals and then August 5 from 10:30 SEL.

Criticism of one medal has already led to the decision that in three years in Paris, speed climbs will be judged separately and the gold medal winner will win a combination of rock and climb difficulty. Will it be the right engine for you to start the next Olympics?

I expect to seek to participate in Paris. The fact that the speed would be separate and only a mixture of rock and difficulty would help me motivationally. Of course, I am well aware that as I get older, it will be more and more difficult for me to keep up with the youth in the rocks. But the hardest thing for me against Tokyo was that I chose to be a climber and I dreamed of climbing the Olympics one day. But I have never dreamed of climbing at a speed that I consider a sport. And it just keeps getting unfair in my head, because I didn’t choose this race.

For example, in Los Angeles, in 2028, only gold will be awarded on the difficulty level. So another reason will be taken care of…

I admit it already happened to me. (Laughter) I’ll be thirty-five, but I might still hardly compete.