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Dvoutisícová vesnice Felscút, místo, kde Viktor Orbán prožil mládí.

This is Orbán. He lives in Felixot, the “richest village” in Hungary

Thanks to this, today Felcsút is not only the most famous, but according to some ratings also the statistically richest village in Hungary, which in terms of per capita surpasses even the richest regions that are forty kilometers from Budapest. The family of local mayor Lorenek Mizaros, a billionaire, is one of the richest families in Hungary.

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What happened to Felscút can be seen from afar, from the city of Bicske, where a train from Budapest stops at a railway station reminiscent of the 1980s unchanged. A giant gray tuft can be seen in the slightly undulating landscape, reminiscent of a strange UFO that fell a short distance from the church among the village houses stretching around the road.

As the bus approaches the village around the idyllic pastures around the creek, where cows and horses graze peacefully, the wild being grows before our eyes. The fact that Felcsút is not a “normal” village is actually reminded by the new buildings of something like the convention center right on the edge of the village. From here the whole area continues in the form of a giant football field. It is located on a small slope that slopes down into a small river. On the main road itself is the magnificent entrance building of the Puskas Academy, named after the most famous Hungarian football player. There are many other buildings built around it, as well as the post-Soviet kitsch-style stadium by Urban’s favorite Hungarian architect Imré Makovcz.

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But I am already approaching the stadium building itself, which, with its dark roof and huge arches, looks more like a strange magical haven than a place where people go to play football.

There are nearly four thousand seats, twice the size of the village. Years ago, the local club “merged” one first-class team, and thanks to this, it advanced to the Hungarian First League. The local Puskás Akadémie has several other football pitches around the stadium and other facilities that you won’t find anywhere else in Hungary.

Everything for the son of a football player

The reason for all this is a few steps from the box office in the stadium. This is an elegant white village house that, unlike the stadium, has been delicately renovated architecturally. Violets bloom on the sidewalk in front of the entrance, golden rain behind the fence. Aside from the fact that it differs from its surroundings, it is the only reminder that it is the weekend home of Viktor Orbán, the Hungarian flag that flies on the house’s gable.

An ordinary person would oppose the construction of such a monstrosity as a monstrous playground next to his house. It was not so Viktor Urban, a fanatical footballer from his youth, who used to go from time to time to play a match. While he personally failed to excel as a footballer, as Prime Minister he arranged a decent football career for his son Gaspar Urban.

The 2,000-strong village of Felscút, the place where Viktor Urban spent his youth.The 2,000-strong village of Felscút, the place where Viktor Urban spent his youth.Source: Luboš Palata

He also played the first Hungarian league for Puskas Academy, founded by his father, and in a few dozen minutes also in the European Cups. Today he is an orator and officer in the Hungarian army.

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However, the stadium, which was literally across the street, was not built with Orbán’s money or the state budget, but was contributed by government-friendly Hungarian oligarchs, who put nearly four billion forints (about 400 million kroner) into the stadium, which opened in 2014. Not far from the stadium, a sightseeing tourist railway for sightseeing trips to nearby Székesfehérvár has been restored with money from European funds, and an airport is planned to be built near the village.


However, not all locals are very excited about Orbán Stadium and the fact that league matches are held here. “We’ve taken the peace we’re used to,” a local pensioner said to me over the fence, in broken Russian, who set out to clean the garden despite the cold weekend weather. “But then again, a lot of people have jobs,” he adds. “Everything has its own thing. I’d rather have that peace.”

The village is more arranged than usual. The road is newly paved, and there are new lighted sidewalks. There are many monuments around the new Town Hall building, from the Heroes of the 1848 Revolution, to the Trianon Memorial Monument dedicated to the anti-communist revolution in 1956.

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A new large school is being built behind the town hall, the church has new stucco, and there are several open-air museum buildings. Other than that, the village is a jumble of cool new buildings, ordinary houses and crowded buildings, with chickens running around the entrance among the rubbish.

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Also, the local church shop is just a filthy supermarket where you wonder if you can buy something to eat there. “I will vote for Urban. He helped not only the village, but also families all over Hungary,” she told me in plain English of a woman in her thirties who came to the store to buy. “I have three kids and I feel like they really care about us,” he says. “Not that it can’t be better, but if the opposition wins, it can’t be better.”